At this point in our trip we are definitely sleep deprived, you can tell by the slight slow down in our pace. Nonetheless, we wanted an Eiffel Tower do-over, so we woke up early and made our way to Trocedero.
Walking up the stairs we were greeted by a sight so gorgeous that we paused in our steps. There was the Eiffel Tower bathed in the light from the rising sun, a mixture of colors too beautiful to describe. The fact that it took us a little while longer than normal to take our cameras out spoke to the fact that we were spell bound. I think the early morning sight of the Eiffel Tower really will engrained in my mind along with the other singleton memories that strike at something deep in your soul, the same part of you that draws you to this magical city.
Once we managed to get our legs working we walked down to the Eiffel Tower and got in line. The line was not yet long but as we waited till the tower opened, the line started to spiral inwards like a snail shell. We both decided it was not the most practical method of lining up, but we were not in charge. We got some hot coffee in line and I got a pain au chocolat. Once the tower opened, the line felt like it was zooming forwards, and we were past security, past the ticket booths and in the elevator going up again…this time to the top. The second elevator always freaks me out, because you can see yourself going up without as many steel beams around you. But in the name of the Eiffel Tower I made it!
Once we got to the very top, we were immediately frozen solid. It was cold to an extreme and windy to boot! We snapped a few pictures but it was ridiculously cold, so we went back down to level two for some more pictures. We got really cool photos of the Eiffel Tower’s shadow on Trocedero Square. Then we climbed the stairs down to level one, not wanting to risk not being able to get off the elevator. Downstairs we were greeted by a major disappointment…it seems that the post office is closed permanently. So our idea of getting the special stamp at the Eiffel Tower post office was ruined. We cheered up with some more coffee at the café, before taking the stairs down to the ground.
We walked around Champ de Mars taking more pictures than we would probably need in a lifetime. Katie was enamored with the Eiffel Tower, so she had us do a photo montage of self portraits. It was quite amusing. We also found a really neat try and took pictures with the tree. All these pictures may have something to do with finding out the limits of our memory cards were a lot higher than anticipated. We walked down to the Peace Monument, where we noticed one of the panes of the glass was shattered but held together since it was a special type of glass. It had been wrapped with caution tape, but before our eyes the pane slid out and broke into tiny pieces. It seemed like an ominous sign for peace in the world. Without dwelling on it to much we headed to the Metro and then towards Orsay.
We were a little hungry at this point so we stopped to get banana Nutella crepes, but this stand made them with chocolat and not Nutella. Not quite the same but we were temporarily satisfied. The line for Orsay was short and we were soon in. We first went to the Picasso Manet exhibit, which to me was a dreadful bore. I learned last year that Picasso was not to my liking for the most part and this was not an exception. It was intriguing that he painted the same scene so many ways, but it did not appeal to me or Katie, so we scratched the Picasso museum off our list. We wandered the exhibits after that, my favorite being Monet and Renoir. I did enjoy some of the modern impressionists as well. After having been to the Opera Garnier the model of it was more intriguing as we enjoyed seeing what was behind the scenes. At this point Katie was faltering so she sat down while I explored further. By the time I finished with the Mask exhibit, Katie had fallen asleep!
I work her up and we decided to do a little shopping. So off to the Gallerie Lafayette. Katie needed to purchase some perfume and I wanted to find a table cloth for my mom. The store is really beautiful in itself, right down to the windows decorated for the holidays. We looked at several windows before exploring the interior. We found the perfume quickly, and then headed to the Gourmet store where we bought some chocolates and small gifts for my brother, Chef Paul. We then exited the main store and went to the home store, where we heard on the announcements that something was going on outside. While looking at table cloths we saw a demonstration/ march going on outside, with riot police ready on hand. I did find a beautiful table cloth and paid a pretty penny, but it was for my mom, and very much worth it!
At that point we were beat so we made our way out and then back home. We stopped at a crepe stand and got a croque monsieur for Katie and ham and cheese crepe for me again. We also stopped for Gelato at Amorino’s, which Katie loved! We arrived at the apartment and decided to take a nap before going to the Arc for a night viewing. Feeling better after our nap and food, we left again to see the Arc and this time make it to the top. We approached a short time before the registers closed but got out tickets. The gentleman at the entrance to the stairs told us if we liked we could use the elevator at the other side. Our poor feet were ecstatic, so the elevator it was! We got to the top for an extraordinary night view of the Champs Elysees. The red, whit e, and blue lights looked beautiful from up top. And the Eiffel Tower sparkled for us. It was a breathtaking scene and we took many pictures from all sorts of angles. Soon the Arc was closing up, so we left to walk down the spiral stairs.
We were still hungry when we got home, but most places near us were no longer serving food. We did find a Monop so stopped in their for some bread, ham, chips, and cookies. I also bought some coffee, vanilla sugar, and tea for back home. We made a little midnight feast back at the apartment, before promptly falling asleep from exhaustion!
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Day 4: Versailles, Louvre, and Leo
The next morning we woke up the earliest we had since our arrival in anticipation of our trip to Versailles. I was keen on seeing the finished renovations on the chapel and on the hall of mirrors. We went to breakfast Le Pick Clops again, loving the fresh squeezed juice and croissants. And Katie was loving the waiter again…
After breakfast we purchased a baguette to go along with the ham and cheese we packed for lunch. And then off we went to the RER station. Now I was not aware of this but the combination ticket for train and chateau is no longer available at train stations. This usually saved you quite a bit of time waiting in line. Somewhat disappointed and worried about the wait, we bough our tickets and got on the train. It was quite busy but the trip went by fast and we exited with the crowds towards Versailles.
The first impression you get of Versailles is that it really is like nothing else you have seen. Majestic, imposing, opulent…and that’s just from the exterior. One other thing you notice is the ugly line for tickets. At that point there was not much to do but get in line and wait. There was a family in front of us with a young man roughly our age who at one point asked us what the announcement being made meant, however we hadn’t heard it so were of no help. But to entertain ourselves we kept trying to figure out what language he was speaking. The next time the announcement went on we heard it, and were able to explain it to him. So we then saw our chance to see who was right. Turns out he was from Brazil and speaking Portuguese though he studies in Germany. Katie developed a crush on poor Leo rather quickly, but he decided to only visit the gardens while his family went to the chateau. So we parted ways.
Inside the Chateau is ten times as opululent, majestic, and overwhelming as the exterior. Your eyes have a hard time finding a spot to focus amidst the wallcoverings, the goldleaf, the statues, and decorated ceilings. Each time you enter a room you have to step back to take it all in without causing your head to spin. One thing that was noticeably different this time, is the Jeff Koons exhibit. In itself it may have been interesting, but in Versailles it was not right. Placed against such a historic setting it seemed to clash wickedly and it took away from some of the rooms. The Gallery of Mirrors is remarkable in its refurbished glory, sparkles just about everywhere! But my favorite is the Queen’s quarters where every inch is decorated with flowers.
Upon completing the main tour we exited to the gardens to be greeted by the sun for the first time in days! Also there to greet us was Leo, who was still waiting for his family. We decided to keep him company and walked around the gorgeous grounds chatting away. When his family came we parted ways, joking that maybe we’d run into each other at the Louvre as that was our plan for the evening. We then took out our baguettes and made simple sandwiches and walked around enjoying the peace of the cold outdoors. We stopped for some hot chocolate where a resident cat caught Katie’s eye. But it was still cold and we wanted to stop at our apartment before the Louvre.
So back to the station and back to our home. Crossing the bridge from Ile St. Louis was a accordion player who really struck a note. It made me again realize how lucky I was to be taking this trip.
But we hurried on home, changed into warm clothes and enjoyed some of our Chablis and then off to the Louvre. The plan was: Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo for Katie and the Egyptians for me. We went in through the Carousel du Louvre and the wait was not bad, and it was a free nigh for those under 26! We hit the big three rather quickly, Venus, Mona, and Winged Victory. Katie was disappointed in the Mona Lisa, but she at least saw it. I was more fascinated by the Egyptians, enjoying the jewelry, sphinxes, and pottery immensely. At one point Katie stopped to rest and I went ahead, when I returned a few minutes later, there was Leo! He somehow found us in the giant Louvre! We decided to make plans for after dinner for drinks and parted ways for the third time!
We soon left the Louvre, but not until Katie had one more look at the Venus de Milo. We made our way to Le Souffle where we had dinner reservations. The restaurant is small but very pretty, and the food is delicious. We started with a light cheese soufflé, followed by a chicken and mushroom soufflé, and then hazelnut soufflé for dessert. It was delightful and the service was very nice. Definitely somewhere reservations would help as it filled up quickly!
After dinner we met up with Leo at his hotel and then went to an Irish pub in the area to enjoy some passably good live music. It was fun and Katie and Leo really hit it off. We made sure to exchange contact info, and around 1 AM we walked Leo home and then headed to our home. It was a fun night, where we really did meet a good friend! Who knows maybe one day Leo will visit Chicago?
After breakfast we purchased a baguette to go along with the ham and cheese we packed for lunch. And then off we went to the RER station. Now I was not aware of this but the combination ticket for train and chateau is no longer available at train stations. This usually saved you quite a bit of time waiting in line. Somewhat disappointed and worried about the wait, we bough our tickets and got on the train. It was quite busy but the trip went by fast and we exited with the crowds towards Versailles.
The first impression you get of Versailles is that it really is like nothing else you have seen. Majestic, imposing, opulent…and that’s just from the exterior. One other thing you notice is the ugly line for tickets. At that point there was not much to do but get in line and wait. There was a family in front of us with a young man roughly our age who at one point asked us what the announcement being made meant, however we hadn’t heard it so were of no help. But to entertain ourselves we kept trying to figure out what language he was speaking. The next time the announcement went on we heard it, and were able to explain it to him. So we then saw our chance to see who was right. Turns out he was from Brazil and speaking Portuguese though he studies in Germany. Katie developed a crush on poor Leo rather quickly, but he decided to only visit the gardens while his family went to the chateau. So we parted ways.
Inside the Chateau is ten times as opululent, majestic, and overwhelming as the exterior. Your eyes have a hard time finding a spot to focus amidst the wallcoverings, the goldleaf, the statues, and decorated ceilings. Each time you enter a room you have to step back to take it all in without causing your head to spin. One thing that was noticeably different this time, is the Jeff Koons exhibit. In itself it may have been interesting, but in Versailles it was not right. Placed against such a historic setting it seemed to clash wickedly and it took away from some of the rooms. The Gallery of Mirrors is remarkable in its refurbished glory, sparkles just about everywhere! But my favorite is the Queen’s quarters where every inch is decorated with flowers.
Upon completing the main tour we exited to the gardens to be greeted by the sun for the first time in days! Also there to greet us was Leo, who was still waiting for his family. We decided to keep him company and walked around the gorgeous grounds chatting away. When his family came we parted ways, joking that maybe we’d run into each other at the Louvre as that was our plan for the evening. We then took out our baguettes and made simple sandwiches and walked around enjoying the peace of the cold outdoors. We stopped for some hot chocolate where a resident cat caught Katie’s eye. But it was still cold and we wanted to stop at our apartment before the Louvre.
So back to the station and back to our home. Crossing the bridge from Ile St. Louis was a accordion player who really struck a note. It made me again realize how lucky I was to be taking this trip.
But we hurried on home, changed into warm clothes and enjoyed some of our Chablis and then off to the Louvre. The plan was: Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo for Katie and the Egyptians for me. We went in through the Carousel du Louvre and the wait was not bad, and it was a free nigh for those under 26! We hit the big three rather quickly, Venus, Mona, and Winged Victory. Katie was disappointed in the Mona Lisa, but she at least saw it. I was more fascinated by the Egyptians, enjoying the jewelry, sphinxes, and pottery immensely. At one point Katie stopped to rest and I went ahead, when I returned a few minutes later, there was Leo! He somehow found us in the giant Louvre! We decided to make plans for after dinner for drinks and parted ways for the third time!
We soon left the Louvre, but not until Katie had one more look at the Venus de Milo. We made our way to Le Souffle where we had dinner reservations. The restaurant is small but very pretty, and the food is delicious. We started with a light cheese soufflé, followed by a chicken and mushroom soufflé, and then hazelnut soufflé for dessert. It was delightful and the service was very nice. Definitely somewhere reservations would help as it filled up quickly!
After dinner we met up with Leo at his hotel and then went to an Irish pub in the area to enjoy some passably good live music. It was fun and Katie and Leo really hit it off. We made sure to exchange contact info, and around 1 AM we walked Leo home and then headed to our home. It was a fun night, where we really did meet a good friend! Who knows maybe one day Leo will visit Chicago?
Day 3: New Years Day , Montmartre, Dali, and Pompidou
With the previous night’s festivities, there really was no way we were waking up early. So the plan called for a relaxed day. Though I had some vague plans, I never really thought about them timewise. Our original plan was to see Sacre Coeur and amble around Montmartre for awhile before seeing Pompidou. But I then also added a get together with an OurParis Forum member who was also in Paris. We woke up at a nice time between 10 and 11, and got ready for the day. The metro was easy to navigate as ever, even Katie was getting the hang of the Parisian “L”. We got off at Anvers and made our way past the souvenir shops. We did not really want a prolonged breakfast but we were hungry and starving for caffeine.
Tucked into the souvenir shops was Columbus Café, the French equivalent of Starbucks. Even though I was not particularly enamored with the idea of having breakfast at the chain, I was hungry and knew we had gotten a late start for our normal breakfast. So we popped in and ordered lattes and crogue monsieurs, along with pain au chocolat (pastry with chocolate on the inside). A breakfast/brunch of champions! Despite my misgivings, the food was actually pretty good and the coffee was caffeinated, all for a decent price. Once we were fortified we made our way past the crowds to Sacre Coeur. And boy was it crowded! The steps were filled with tourists, though I did notice that the bracelet sellers were much fewer in number compared to the previous summer. After several photos from the base of the hill we began the climb up the stairs. The stairs were now so common to us, with the four flights to our apartment being good practice. On the steps we heard a song that tugged a little at my heart strings. “I just called to say I love you…” It made me a slight bit homesick for a few reasons. This song was always played on the Polish radio every Sunday after church, and it also made me sad that I couldn’t call home due to faulty internet to let someone know I love them. After listening and singing the refrain with the small crowd that had drawn around the performer, I was ready to move on.
The entrance to the Basilica was very crowded, and once inside we noticed that despite the “No Photos” sign, everyone was taking pictures. It seemed like it was so crowded that the security could not enforce the rule. And despite knowing better, I had to indulge the photographer in me and make the most of the borrowed camera! But before I went completely snap happy, I lit one of the candles and said a little prayer for those I left back home. Katie was in complete awe of the Basilica and I myself felt more of a connection here than Notre Dame. Even with the photographers this time around, it still seemed like a very holy place. We wandered around the church with the other tourists and worshippers alike before braving the tiny gift shop. Katie wanted to buy some rosaries for her family, and I remembered regretting not getting one for myself last time. So we looked at their beautiful selection, before making our purchases. It was one of those souvenirs that has more meaning then just having the word Paris stamped on it.
Once we escaped the madhouse of the gift shop we walked back down to the souvenir shops below. Amidst these stores we made a few souvenir purchases of the more traditional kind. I bought several scarves, a picture frame, and a Diwali necklace for my sister. Katie also purchased several scarves, plus a few tote bags for family at home. After making our souvenir purchases, we walked to Place du Tetre where we witnessed a tourists being chastised by an artist for taking pictures. She complained in French to the obviously non-French speaking tourist that she was not an animal or statue to be photographed and that she deserved more respect. The poor tourist scurried away, probably not understanding anything except the anger in her voice. Then the artist turned right back around and smiled at some people inquiring about her work. We looked at the artwork for sale but it was more than I wanted to pay for anything, so I moved on with Katie.
Our next stop was the Salvador Dali museum, which was open that day. This was a special request by Katie and I was intrigued too remembering the melting clocks from art class. The experience ended up being something I would think is akin to “getting high” or being “trippy”. I understand the term surrealism a lot better now. The artwork was very detailed but completely without any sense to it. I liked the collection pertaining to “Alice in Wonderland” and the holography works. Katie was completely fascinated by Dali’s works so we took our time in the tiny museum. Finally we had to go if we wanted to have time for Pompidou.
We went back to our apartment to drop off our bags and change scarves, before heading to Pompidou. The line looked long in the plaza, but it moved quickly. Before we knew it we were in. Now my first impression of the museum scared me, especially the first floor, and I warned Katie as we went up the escalator. We were greeted at the top by a view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling, so we oohed and awed over an image that will never get old. Then we made our way into the museum of nonsense where a blue canvas is art. Like me, Katie did not get modern art. We hurried through the lower level, past the vultures disemboweling the Buddha like man and went upstairs were a little more order reined. My favorite “modern” artist is Matisse so I did enjoy the second floor much better. I like the work of some of the more geometric artists as well. And for Katie there were a few Dali pieces. But this museum wasn’t for us so we left shortly.
Down in the plaza again we stopped at a food stand for a ham and cheese crepe for me and another croque monsier for Katie. We strolled with our food towards the Metro on our way back to Montmartre to meet Megan. We just stepped out of the Metro, a bit early and were going to sit down on the bench when Megan approached! Now this is what I love about the OurParis forum, the people! They are the friendliest bunch you could ever meet and Megan is a fine example of that. We chattered about her trip so far and made our way to a little bar. It became apparent that this was not the suave Paris bar, but more like a local dive bar. It really wasn’t bad but Megan was very apologetic. We enjoyed a glass of wine and exchanged stories. It was a lot of fun to finally meet someone whose words I had read online. Unfortunately it was a short visit as Megan had dinner plans. So we walked back to the Metro and said goodbye.
Katie and I then decided we were somewhat hungry and I knew the area by Rue de la Hutchette would have some crepe stands open. We also wanted to see Notre Dame at night. So we walked over from the Metro looking our fill before crossing the river to the busy area of Rue de la Hutchette. We found an open crepe stand and ordered Grand Marnier crepes…which were okay but we both decided nutella and banana are really the only way to go. We wandered the street a bit, with its carnival like air. At the end there was some sort of performance going on, but it was hard to see much as the crowd had already gotten large. So we decided to head home, but first stopping for some vin chaud.
Our feet were tired, but it was a well spent day.
Tucked into the souvenir shops was Columbus Café, the French equivalent of Starbucks. Even though I was not particularly enamored with the idea of having breakfast at the chain, I was hungry and knew we had gotten a late start for our normal breakfast. So we popped in and ordered lattes and crogue monsieurs, along with pain au chocolat (pastry with chocolate on the inside). A breakfast/brunch of champions! Despite my misgivings, the food was actually pretty good and the coffee was caffeinated, all for a decent price. Once we were fortified we made our way past the crowds to Sacre Coeur. And boy was it crowded! The steps were filled with tourists, though I did notice that the bracelet sellers were much fewer in number compared to the previous summer. After several photos from the base of the hill we began the climb up the stairs. The stairs were now so common to us, with the four flights to our apartment being good practice. On the steps we heard a song that tugged a little at my heart strings. “I just called to say I love you…” It made me a slight bit homesick for a few reasons. This song was always played on the Polish radio every Sunday after church, and it also made me sad that I couldn’t call home due to faulty internet to let someone know I love them. After listening and singing the refrain with the small crowd that had drawn around the performer, I was ready to move on.
The entrance to the Basilica was very crowded, and once inside we noticed that despite the “No Photos” sign, everyone was taking pictures. It seemed like it was so crowded that the security could not enforce the rule. And despite knowing better, I had to indulge the photographer in me and make the most of the borrowed camera! But before I went completely snap happy, I lit one of the candles and said a little prayer for those I left back home. Katie was in complete awe of the Basilica and I myself felt more of a connection here than Notre Dame. Even with the photographers this time around, it still seemed like a very holy place. We wandered around the church with the other tourists and worshippers alike before braving the tiny gift shop. Katie wanted to buy some rosaries for her family, and I remembered regretting not getting one for myself last time. So we looked at their beautiful selection, before making our purchases. It was one of those souvenirs that has more meaning then just having the word Paris stamped on it.
Once we escaped the madhouse of the gift shop we walked back down to the souvenir shops below. Amidst these stores we made a few souvenir purchases of the more traditional kind. I bought several scarves, a picture frame, and a Diwali necklace for my sister. Katie also purchased several scarves, plus a few tote bags for family at home. After making our souvenir purchases, we walked to Place du Tetre where we witnessed a tourists being chastised by an artist for taking pictures. She complained in French to the obviously non-French speaking tourist that she was not an animal or statue to be photographed and that she deserved more respect. The poor tourist scurried away, probably not understanding anything except the anger in her voice. Then the artist turned right back around and smiled at some people inquiring about her work. We looked at the artwork for sale but it was more than I wanted to pay for anything, so I moved on with Katie.
Our next stop was the Salvador Dali museum, which was open that day. This was a special request by Katie and I was intrigued too remembering the melting clocks from art class. The experience ended up being something I would think is akin to “getting high” or being “trippy”. I understand the term surrealism a lot better now. The artwork was very detailed but completely without any sense to it. I liked the collection pertaining to “Alice in Wonderland” and the holography works. Katie was completely fascinated by Dali’s works so we took our time in the tiny museum. Finally we had to go if we wanted to have time for Pompidou.
We went back to our apartment to drop off our bags and change scarves, before heading to Pompidou. The line looked long in the plaza, but it moved quickly. Before we knew it we were in. Now my first impression of the museum scared me, especially the first floor, and I warned Katie as we went up the escalator. We were greeted at the top by a view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling, so we oohed and awed over an image that will never get old. Then we made our way into the museum of nonsense where a blue canvas is art. Like me, Katie did not get modern art. We hurried through the lower level, past the vultures disemboweling the Buddha like man and went upstairs were a little more order reined. My favorite “modern” artist is Matisse so I did enjoy the second floor much better. I like the work of some of the more geometric artists as well. And for Katie there were a few Dali pieces. But this museum wasn’t for us so we left shortly.
Down in the plaza again we stopped at a food stand for a ham and cheese crepe for me and another croque monsier for Katie. We strolled with our food towards the Metro on our way back to Montmartre to meet Megan. We just stepped out of the Metro, a bit early and were going to sit down on the bench when Megan approached! Now this is what I love about the OurParis forum, the people! They are the friendliest bunch you could ever meet and Megan is a fine example of that. We chattered about her trip so far and made our way to a little bar. It became apparent that this was not the suave Paris bar, but more like a local dive bar. It really wasn’t bad but Megan was very apologetic. We enjoyed a glass of wine and exchanged stories. It was a lot of fun to finally meet someone whose words I had read online. Unfortunately it was a short visit as Megan had dinner plans. So we walked back to the Metro and said goodbye.
Katie and I then decided we were somewhat hungry and I knew the area by Rue de la Hutchette would have some crepe stands open. We also wanted to see Notre Dame at night. So we walked over from the Metro looking our fill before crossing the river to the busy area of Rue de la Hutchette. We found an open crepe stand and ordered Grand Marnier crepes…which were okay but we both decided nutella and banana are really the only way to go. We wandered the street a bit, with its carnival like air. At the end there was some sort of performance going on, but it was hard to see much as the crowd had already gotten large. So we decided to head home, but first stopping for some vin chaud.
Our feet were tired, but it was a well spent day.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
New Years Eve Day 2
Despite our best intentions the next day, we did not get up as early as we wished. Between jet lag and the late night we just couldn’t force our bodies to accept the thought of waking up early. So over an hour after our planned departure time we woke up…
We decided to stop at Le Pick-Clops for breakfast, a place I had previously been to that was clean and kitschy. I enjoyed sitting our table and watching the people go by as we sipped our café crème and fresh squeezed orange juice. We watched as it started to snow on the street, enough to cover the cars with a fine white powder. I tried to explain to Katie that this was no ordinary Chicago snow that we see from October to April…this was magical Paris snow. Somehow she didn’t seem to agree….
After breakfast we were off towards the Metro. But before we made to the Metro we walked through a small market that had sprung up in a square near Hotel De Ville and right off Rue de Rivoli. I was sorely tempted to buy a chicken and potatoes for later but we had big dinner plans so it was not to be. We then walked into the square near the church of St. German Protais. Since we already were running late we decided to step in and see what it was like inside. The church was very peaceful and quiet and we explored the chapels and stared at the beautiful stained glass. Though not comparable in size or opulence to some of the other churches in Paris, we found it a peaceful and beautiful oasis. Katie’s new camera was working well, but unfortunately the settings made it make sounds every time she turned it on or took a picture. So when we stepped outside I made sure to change the settings, which was when we realized Katie lost her hat. So back inside the church we went in search of her hat, and fortunately we found it quickly. Then we were off for the Metro.
We arrived at Place Trocedero fairly quickly and as we emerged from the Metro we were greeted by an eerie site. There was the Eiffel Tower, Katie’s first view of it but it was partially hidden in fog and clouds. We made the decision to not go all the way up top, since it would not be worth it. Before crossing the bridge, I initiated Katie into the wonderful world of banana Nutella crepes! Delicious and warm! Her reaction was better than could have been hoped for, and she really enjoyed it!
Which was probably a good thing because the line was incredibly long just to buy tickets, so every little ounce of warmth helped. The line was wrapped all the way around the corner, onto the sidewalk of the street. Initially it was fun; we took lots of pictures of the Eiffel Tower. But then it got boring…and cold. I started my fascination with boots. I never realized there were so many types of boots…I started discreetly taking pictures of random boots that caught my eye, from the stylish to the gaudy. Katie on the other hand was fascinated by the pigeons. At first she would say Hello to the pigeons, but since they were French pigeons, I told her to say Bonjour Oiseaux. What it ended up sounding like was Bonjour Wassup? We stomped our feet and did what we could to stay warm and ward off line cutters. After over an hour, probably two we made it to the ticket counter and onto the elevator.
Being afraid of heights always makes going up towers and building tough, but I love the view from the Tour so it was a must. We went to the second floor and got a decent view given the weather. Of course lots of pictures were taken. I discovered on this trip it is much better with two people because there is always someone to take a photo for you!
After we looked to our hearts content, we searched for the Post Office. We were told it is on the first floor so we hopped on the elevator. We barely made it out on the first floor as it was very crowded and we were as far from the exit as we could get. So we pushed and showed till we got out, even as the doors were about to close. We looked around the first floor and located the Post Office but alas! It was closed early for New Years! Disappointed and cold, we went out to the snow sculpture exhibit and ordered vin chaud at the bar made of packed snow. The sculptures were pretty, and it was hard to believe all made out of snow! After our vin chaud, we walked down the stairs and decided to travel on to the Arc.
A metro ride away, we made it the Arc quickly. It was very crowded that day as we passed under the street to get a better view. Unfortunately we had a second disappointment that day when we learned the Arc closed early too! We looked around from the ground floor and then decided to head back and wander the Champs. This is where I introduced Katie to Bertillon’s ice cream!! Best ice cream ever! It was a bit silly to walk with our cones on such a cold day but we did not care, it was so good!
After we wandered a bit and looked at decorations we headed back to get ready for dinner at Gallopin! Our reservations were at 7 so we made sure we got there on time. A friend of mine from France whom I have only known online on the OurParis forum had kindly reserved a table for us. We were by far the youngest people there and the only Americans. The waiter was amused and happy to practice his English. We did get English menus but already pretty much knew what we wanted. So we started with Kirs and a half bottle of Chablis. We received hors d’oeuvres, made with caviar, and perhaps crab. Whatever it was, it was yummy! Then onto the entrée, which for both of us was a trio of foie gras. One was a mixture of foie gras and chestnut, another was cooked foie gras with pears, and finally foie gras served cold. This was the first time trying foie gras for both of us, and we loved it! My favorite was the creamy mixture of chestnut while Katie loved the cooked version. Our main course was sole soufflé for me and a filet mignon for Katie. Both were declared delicious and quickly devoured! The service at the restaurant was wonderful, and Katie developed a crush on the waiter. I myself preferred the gorgeous décor with Christmas lights! Dessert was “Chocolate Greed” for Katie and a crème brule for me. Once again, but dishes were major hits. We also got small shot glasses of chocolate pudding and mini lemon tarts. When it was time to ask for the check, I tried to teach Katie how, but when she finally caught the waiters attention she got embarrassed and the poor waiter looked to me confused, so I had to ask.
We left Gallopin feeling full and pampered. We headed back to our apartment, only to be hassled by a man when we arrived at our station. He kept asking us if we wanted to go with him to Bastille for New Years, and how charming we were, etc. I told the man to stop, in French and English, and finally he left us after following for three blocks! We made sure he wasn’t still following us and hurried home to enjoy a quick drink and dress warmly. Then we went back to the Metro, which was packed! Our train ended up breaking half hour from midnight so we tried to walk to the Eiffel Tower. Despite speed walking we were quite a ways away near midnight! So we settled in with a view of the Tower, which was off, and readied our champagne. At midnight it lit up and sparkled and it was such a beautiful and magical moment that I will never forget. People were happy everywhere and wishing each other well.
We attempted to walk to the Eiffel tower afterwards but found out the main bridge from Trocedero was closed! We had planned on walked back to the previous bridge, but realized it was already 1 AM!! So we stopped for crepes at the same stand as in the morning. For me it was the Coconut Nutella crepe and Katie had Nutella Almond. Both great, but not quite the same as with Banana.
We then tried to find our way to the Metro, slightly tipsy from good cheer and good wine. We got hassled a bit at the Trocedero square but two men looking for New Years “bisous” (kisses) but we got away. We then had to find a way to one of the few remaining open Metro lines, at Champs Elysees. It was quite a walk for our tired feet but we made it! Unfortunately, even though the train was free, it did not make all the stops and we had to get off early and walk a bit further home then normal. Needless to say we fell asleep rather quickly when we finally climbed up to our apartment!
But what a HAPPY New Years Eve!!
We decided to stop at Le Pick-Clops for breakfast, a place I had previously been to that was clean and kitschy. I enjoyed sitting our table and watching the people go by as we sipped our café crème and fresh squeezed orange juice. We watched as it started to snow on the street, enough to cover the cars with a fine white powder. I tried to explain to Katie that this was no ordinary Chicago snow that we see from October to April…this was magical Paris snow. Somehow she didn’t seem to agree….
After breakfast we were off towards the Metro. But before we made to the Metro we walked through a small market that had sprung up in a square near Hotel De Ville and right off Rue de Rivoli. I was sorely tempted to buy a chicken and potatoes for later but we had big dinner plans so it was not to be. We then walked into the square near the church of St. German Protais. Since we already were running late we decided to step in and see what it was like inside. The church was very peaceful and quiet and we explored the chapels and stared at the beautiful stained glass. Though not comparable in size or opulence to some of the other churches in Paris, we found it a peaceful and beautiful oasis. Katie’s new camera was working well, but unfortunately the settings made it make sounds every time she turned it on or took a picture. So when we stepped outside I made sure to change the settings, which was when we realized Katie lost her hat. So back inside the church we went in search of her hat, and fortunately we found it quickly. Then we were off for the Metro.
We arrived at Place Trocedero fairly quickly and as we emerged from the Metro we were greeted by an eerie site. There was the Eiffel Tower, Katie’s first view of it but it was partially hidden in fog and clouds. We made the decision to not go all the way up top, since it would not be worth it. Before crossing the bridge, I initiated Katie into the wonderful world of banana Nutella crepes! Delicious and warm! Her reaction was better than could have been hoped for, and she really enjoyed it!
Which was probably a good thing because the line was incredibly long just to buy tickets, so every little ounce of warmth helped. The line was wrapped all the way around the corner, onto the sidewalk of the street. Initially it was fun; we took lots of pictures of the Eiffel Tower. But then it got boring…and cold. I started my fascination with boots. I never realized there were so many types of boots…I started discreetly taking pictures of random boots that caught my eye, from the stylish to the gaudy. Katie on the other hand was fascinated by the pigeons. At first she would say Hello to the pigeons, but since they were French pigeons, I told her to say Bonjour Oiseaux. What it ended up sounding like was Bonjour Wassup? We stomped our feet and did what we could to stay warm and ward off line cutters. After over an hour, probably two we made it to the ticket counter and onto the elevator.
Being afraid of heights always makes going up towers and building tough, but I love the view from the Tour so it was a must. We went to the second floor and got a decent view given the weather. Of course lots of pictures were taken. I discovered on this trip it is much better with two people because there is always someone to take a photo for you!
After we looked to our hearts content, we searched for the Post Office. We were told it is on the first floor so we hopped on the elevator. We barely made it out on the first floor as it was very crowded and we were as far from the exit as we could get. So we pushed and showed till we got out, even as the doors were about to close. We looked around the first floor and located the Post Office but alas! It was closed early for New Years! Disappointed and cold, we went out to the snow sculpture exhibit and ordered vin chaud at the bar made of packed snow. The sculptures were pretty, and it was hard to believe all made out of snow! After our vin chaud, we walked down the stairs and decided to travel on to the Arc.
A metro ride away, we made it the Arc quickly. It was very crowded that day as we passed under the street to get a better view. Unfortunately we had a second disappointment that day when we learned the Arc closed early too! We looked around from the ground floor and then decided to head back and wander the Champs. This is where I introduced Katie to Bertillon’s ice cream!! Best ice cream ever! It was a bit silly to walk with our cones on such a cold day but we did not care, it was so good!
After we wandered a bit and looked at decorations we headed back to get ready for dinner at Gallopin! Our reservations were at 7 so we made sure we got there on time. A friend of mine from France whom I have only known online on the OurParis forum had kindly reserved a table for us. We were by far the youngest people there and the only Americans. The waiter was amused and happy to practice his English. We did get English menus but already pretty much knew what we wanted. So we started with Kirs and a half bottle of Chablis. We received hors d’oeuvres, made with caviar, and perhaps crab. Whatever it was, it was yummy! Then onto the entrée, which for both of us was a trio of foie gras. One was a mixture of foie gras and chestnut, another was cooked foie gras with pears, and finally foie gras served cold. This was the first time trying foie gras for both of us, and we loved it! My favorite was the creamy mixture of chestnut while Katie loved the cooked version. Our main course was sole soufflé for me and a filet mignon for Katie. Both were declared delicious and quickly devoured! The service at the restaurant was wonderful, and Katie developed a crush on the waiter. I myself preferred the gorgeous décor with Christmas lights! Dessert was “Chocolate Greed” for Katie and a crème brule for me. Once again, but dishes were major hits. We also got small shot glasses of chocolate pudding and mini lemon tarts. When it was time to ask for the check, I tried to teach Katie how, but when she finally caught the waiters attention she got embarrassed and the poor waiter looked to me confused, so I had to ask.
We left Gallopin feeling full and pampered. We headed back to our apartment, only to be hassled by a man when we arrived at our station. He kept asking us if we wanted to go with him to Bastille for New Years, and how charming we were, etc. I told the man to stop, in French and English, and finally he left us after following for three blocks! We made sure he wasn’t still following us and hurried home to enjoy a quick drink and dress warmly. Then we went back to the Metro, which was packed! Our train ended up breaking half hour from midnight so we tried to walk to the Eiffel Tower. Despite speed walking we were quite a ways away near midnight! So we settled in with a view of the Tower, which was off, and readied our champagne. At midnight it lit up and sparkled and it was such a beautiful and magical moment that I will never forget. People were happy everywhere and wishing each other well.
We attempted to walk to the Eiffel tower afterwards but found out the main bridge from Trocedero was closed! We had planned on walked back to the previous bridge, but realized it was already 1 AM!! So we stopped for crepes at the same stand as in the morning. For me it was the Coconut Nutella crepe and Katie had Nutella Almond. Both great, but not quite the same as with Banana.
We then tried to find our way to the Metro, slightly tipsy from good cheer and good wine. We got hassled a bit at the Trocedero square but two men looking for New Years “bisous” (kisses) but we got away. We then had to find a way to one of the few remaining open Metro lines, at Champs Elysees. It was quite a walk for our tired feet but we made it! Unfortunately, even though the train was free, it did not make all the stops and we had to get off early and walk a bit further home then normal. Needless to say we fell asleep rather quickly when we finally climbed up to our apartment!
But what a HAPPY New Years Eve!!
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Notre Dame , The Ballet, and a Real Creme Brulee
Our flight was long but uneventful despite the two babies on board. We were asked if we wanted to pay an extra $200 to upgrade, but declined, yet somehow we were still sat in Economy Plus. Not that I will complain...
We had a funny flight attendant who made various amusing quips including telling Katie she chose the wrong language to learn in thirty minutes as she whipped out her translation guide not long before landing!
After a minor delay at the luggage collection point we made it onto the crowded RER express train and were on our way. A quick change at the Chatelet Hub and then we were at our home stop, Hotel-de-Ville.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Packed and Ready to GO!
So I am sitting at home with my suitcase and just waiting till it's time to fly off!
All night I kept dreaming about how far off the itinerary we had gotten, but it was Paris!! I checked everything off my list and now it's just a waiting game.
I didn't really rework my itinerary too much..I'll take a look at it on the plane, but I think I can wing a few things since I know the locations.
I did add reservations to Le Souffle and O-Chateau to our list. And hopefully we will try some aligot at one point on the trip but I have not heard back about our reservations. The place would be L'Ambassade d'Auvergne for Sunday, but we shall see!
Can't wait!!!
All night I kept dreaming about how far off the itinerary we had gotten, but it was Paris!! I checked everything off my list and now it's just a waiting game.
I didn't really rework my itinerary too much..I'll take a look at it on the plane, but I think I can wing a few things since I know the locations.
I did add reservations to Le Souffle and O-Chateau to our list. And hopefully we will try some aligot at one point on the trip but I have not heard back about our reservations. The place would be L'Ambassade d'Auvergne for Sunday, but we shall see!
Can't wait!!!
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Before the Trip Begins
A new adventure is rapidly approaching on the horizon. Not that long ago I finished the adventure and trip of a lifetime: two weeks in Paris solo. And now it is time to return to the scene of the escapades with my best friend.
As much as I loved Paris I decided at the end of my trip that I would not go back until I had someone else to go with me. This did not seem like a possibility in the near future so my bank account was safe. However this was not to be. Not long after we rang in 2008, my best friend (Miss Minor) from college approached me with an idea. She was considering a trip to Paris and wondered if I would like to join her. Now she knew how much I loved Paris, and how badly I wanted to go back. So she had to have known I would not refuse the excuse to go back to Paris!
So immediately I started researching airfare, and we stumbled upon a golden price. We booked in a matter of days excited about the amazing price.
I immediately started planning. I assigned guidebooks to Miss Minor to help her pick out some spots she would like to see. I booked the studio from my Trip of a Lifetime, and started a makeshift itinerary that changed weekly. Five days was just not enough to do everything! But unfortunately this is all Miss Minor could take off.
Then in August I received an email regarding our flight changing, cutting out half a day. I contacted Miss Minor and we both agreed this was unacceptable! So I called the booking company and they told me they would issue a full refund and I would have to rebook. At this time Miss Minor also learned she could add two days to our trip! So both of us cancelled our flight and started looking for new fares. But Miss Minor received an email saying her flight had never changed so a full refund could not be extended!! Apparently her flight number changed as the flight was downsized and I got booted off to another flight! However I complained to the airline and a full refund was issued as we had both booked within minutes of each other. Unfortunately this meant that we would have to rebook and our golden price was no longer available. Another 250 dollars later we had a direct flight to Paris and an additional two days.
Since then we have been planning like nothing else. Or should I say I have been planning!
Due to her work, Miss Minor has left the planning to me, which has been great fun!!
So as it stands we have made reservations for the Opera on our first evening followed by dinner at Au Petit Riche. The following day being NYE, we have obtained reservations at Brasserie Gallopin!! The itinerary is still under development, or shall I say re-development. I had a change of thought and am now in process of a small overhaul on the itinerary. Stay tuned for details! We will hit the basics of Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Sacre Coeur, but I am looking at some slightly different spots so it does not end up being exactly like my prior trip but still remains a trip that Miss Minor can enjoy!
As much as I loved Paris I decided at the end of my trip that I would not go back until I had someone else to go with me. This did not seem like a possibility in the near future so my bank account was safe. However this was not to be. Not long after we rang in 2008, my best friend (Miss Minor) from college approached me with an idea. She was considering a trip to Paris and wondered if I would like to join her. Now she knew how much I loved Paris, and how badly I wanted to go back. So she had to have known I would not refuse the excuse to go back to Paris!
So immediately I started researching airfare, and we stumbled upon a golden price. We booked in a matter of days excited about the amazing price.
I immediately started planning. I assigned guidebooks to Miss Minor to help her pick out some spots she would like to see. I booked the studio from my Trip of a Lifetime, and started a makeshift itinerary that changed weekly. Five days was just not enough to do everything! But unfortunately this is all Miss Minor could take off.
Then in August I received an email regarding our flight changing, cutting out half a day. I contacted Miss Minor and we both agreed this was unacceptable! So I called the booking company and they told me they would issue a full refund and I would have to rebook. At this time Miss Minor also learned she could add two days to our trip! So both of us cancelled our flight and started looking for new fares. But Miss Minor received an email saying her flight had never changed so a full refund could not be extended!! Apparently her flight number changed as the flight was downsized and I got booted off to another flight! However I complained to the airline and a full refund was issued as we had both booked within minutes of each other. Unfortunately this meant that we would have to rebook and our golden price was no longer available. Another 250 dollars later we had a direct flight to Paris and an additional two days.
Since then we have been planning like nothing else. Or should I say I have been planning!
Due to her work, Miss Minor has left the planning to me, which has been great fun!!
So as it stands we have made reservations for the Opera on our first evening followed by dinner at Au Petit Riche. The following day being NYE, we have obtained reservations at Brasserie Gallopin!! The itinerary is still under development, or shall I say re-development. I had a change of thought and am now in process of a small overhaul on the itinerary. Stay tuned for details! We will hit the basics of Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Sacre Coeur, but I am looking at some slightly different spots so it does not end up being exactly like my prior trip but still remains a trip that Miss Minor can enjoy!
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