Despite our best intentions the next day, we did not get up as early as we wished. Between jet lag and the late night we just couldn’t force our bodies to accept the thought of waking up early. So over an hour after our planned departure time we woke up…
We decided to stop at Le Pick-Clops for breakfast, a place I had previously been to that was clean and kitschy. I enjoyed sitting our table and watching the people go by as we sipped our café crème and fresh squeezed orange juice. We watched as it started to snow on the street, enough to cover the cars with a fine white powder. I tried to explain to Katie that this was no ordinary Chicago snow that we see from October to April…this was magical Paris snow. Somehow she didn’t seem to agree….
After breakfast we were off towards the Metro. But before we made to the Metro we walked through a small market that had sprung up in a square near Hotel De Ville and right off Rue de Rivoli. I was sorely tempted to buy a chicken and potatoes for later but we had big dinner plans so it was not to be. We then walked into the square near the church of St. German Protais. Since we already were running late we decided to step in and see what it was like inside. The church was very peaceful and quiet and we explored the chapels and stared at the beautiful stained glass. Though not comparable in size or opulence to some of the other churches in Paris, we found it a peaceful and beautiful oasis. Katie’s new camera was working well, but unfortunately the settings made it make sounds every time she turned it on or took a picture. So when we stepped outside I made sure to change the settings, which was when we realized Katie lost her hat. So back inside the church we went in search of her hat, and fortunately we found it quickly. Then we were off for the Metro.
We arrived at Place Trocedero fairly quickly and as we emerged from the Metro we were greeted by an eerie site. There was the Eiffel Tower, Katie’s first view of it but it was partially hidden in fog and clouds. We made the decision to not go all the way up top, since it would not be worth it. Before crossing the bridge, I initiated Katie into the wonderful world of banana Nutella crepes! Delicious and warm! Her reaction was better than could have been hoped for, and she really enjoyed it!
Which was probably a good thing because the line was incredibly long just to buy tickets, so every little ounce of warmth helped. The line was wrapped all the way around the corner, onto the sidewalk of the street. Initially it was fun; we took lots of pictures of the Eiffel Tower. But then it got boring…and cold. I started my fascination with boots. I never realized there were so many types of boots…I started discreetly taking pictures of random boots that caught my eye, from the stylish to the gaudy. Katie on the other hand was fascinated by the pigeons. At first she would say Hello to the pigeons, but since they were French pigeons, I told her to say Bonjour Oiseaux. What it ended up sounding like was Bonjour Wassup? We stomped our feet and did what we could to stay warm and ward off line cutters. After over an hour, probably two we made it to the ticket counter and onto the elevator.
Being afraid of heights always makes going up towers and building tough, but I love the view from the Tour so it was a must. We went to the second floor and got a decent view given the weather. Of course lots of pictures were taken. I discovered on this trip it is much better with two people because there is always someone to take a photo for you!
After we looked to our hearts content, we searched for the Post Office. We were told it is on the first floor so we hopped on the elevator. We barely made it out on the first floor as it was very crowded and we were as far from the exit as we could get. So we pushed and showed till we got out, even as the doors were about to close. We looked around the first floor and located the Post Office but alas! It was closed early for New Years! Disappointed and cold, we went out to the snow sculpture exhibit and ordered vin chaud at the bar made of packed snow. The sculptures were pretty, and it was hard to believe all made out of snow! After our vin chaud, we walked down the stairs and decided to travel on to the Arc.
A metro ride away, we made it the Arc quickly. It was very crowded that day as we passed under the street to get a better view. Unfortunately we had a second disappointment that day when we learned the Arc closed early too! We looked around from the ground floor and then decided to head back and wander the Champs. This is where I introduced Katie to Bertillon’s ice cream!! Best ice cream ever! It was a bit silly to walk with our cones on such a cold day but we did not care, it was so good!
After we wandered a bit and looked at decorations we headed back to get ready for dinner at Gallopin! Our reservations were at 7 so we made sure we got there on time. A friend of mine from France whom I have only known online on the OurParis forum had kindly reserved a table for us. We were by far the youngest people there and the only Americans. The waiter was amused and happy to practice his English. We did get English menus but already pretty much knew what we wanted. So we started with Kirs and a half bottle of Chablis. We received hors d’oeuvres, made with caviar, and perhaps crab. Whatever it was, it was yummy! Then onto the entrée, which for both of us was a trio of foie gras. One was a mixture of foie gras and chestnut, another was cooked foie gras with pears, and finally foie gras served cold. This was the first time trying foie gras for both of us, and we loved it! My favorite was the creamy mixture of chestnut while Katie loved the cooked version. Our main course was sole soufflé for me and a filet mignon for Katie. Both were declared delicious and quickly devoured! The service at the restaurant was wonderful, and Katie developed a crush on the waiter. I myself preferred the gorgeous décor with Christmas lights! Dessert was “Chocolate Greed” for Katie and a crème brule for me. Once again, but dishes were major hits. We also got small shot glasses of chocolate pudding and mini lemon tarts. When it was time to ask for the check, I tried to teach Katie how, but when she finally caught the waiters attention she got embarrassed and the poor waiter looked to me confused, so I had to ask.
We left Gallopin feeling full and pampered. We headed back to our apartment, only to be hassled by a man when we arrived at our station. He kept asking us if we wanted to go with him to Bastille for New Years, and how charming we were, etc. I told the man to stop, in French and English, and finally he left us after following for three blocks! We made sure he wasn’t still following us and hurried home to enjoy a quick drink and dress warmly. Then we went back to the Metro, which was packed! Our train ended up breaking half hour from midnight so we tried to walk to the Eiffel Tower. Despite speed walking we were quite a ways away near midnight! So we settled in with a view of the Tower, which was off, and readied our champagne. At midnight it lit up and sparkled and it was such a beautiful and magical moment that I will never forget. People were happy everywhere and wishing each other well.
We attempted to walk to the Eiffel tower afterwards but found out the main bridge from Trocedero was closed! We had planned on walked back to the previous bridge, but realized it was already 1 AM!! So we stopped for crepes at the same stand as in the morning. For me it was the Coconut Nutella crepe and Katie had Nutella Almond. Both great, but not quite the same as with Banana.
We then tried to find our way to the Metro, slightly tipsy from good cheer and good wine. We got hassled a bit at the Trocedero square but two men looking for New Years “bisous” (kisses) but we got away. We then had to find a way to one of the few remaining open Metro lines, at Champs Elysees. It was quite a walk for our tired feet but we made it! Unfortunately, even though the train was free, it did not make all the stops and we had to get off early and walk a bit further home then normal. Needless to say we fell asleep rather quickly when we finally climbed up to our apartment!
But what a HAPPY New Years Eve!!
Sunday, January 4, 2009
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